“A Dumpling is a dumpling by any other name!”
Both my grandmothers lived in the same village in Yugoslavia/Croatia during the War in 1944. My mother’s mother, Oma-D – my favorite grandmother – was a refugee from her home in Dobrovic, a forest-covered area of Croatia. She left her home and her husband, my grandfather, in Dobrovic to seek shelter and safety. Tito and his Partisans (gang members) were hiding in the woods surrounding my grandparent’s home, which was a very beautiful Jagdt Schloss, Hunting Lodge, where they were making the area dangerous and unsafe for everyone who lived there. Oma-D came to live with friends near us in the village of Veliscovci. My parents, my brother and I lived with my father’s mother, Oma-R, in the house that once was an Inn, on the outskirts of that village.
Meals were usually varied during the weekdays, but on Fridays we had bean soup as a meatless meal for lunch, which was the main meal of the day. I disliked beans as a child. At only seven years old Oma-R made me eat a whole bowl of that bean soup while I was choking on every spoonful.
As soon as Oma-D arrived to live near us, I escaped many times, with my mother’s knowing smile through the small garden gate in the back of the vegetable garden, to run across fields between our house and the village to join her for a meal of Knoedel (dumplings). A Knoedel is a dough ball with a filling in the middle. It is usually boiled in water or in a meat broth.
As soon as I arrived at Oma-D’s door she would ask, “What would you like to eat?” When I told her “dumplings,” she would ask “what kind?” You see, there are many different kinds of dumplings in the Austro-Hungarian cooking. There are savory dumplings, like meat dumplings, bacon dumplings, ham dumplings, liver dumplings or anything else one can think of to fill them. The sweet dumplings are usually filled with some kind of fruit, like plums, apricots, cherries, grapes, apples, even jams or whatever other fruit one has on hand.
What my Croatian Oma-D probably did not know is that the dumpling is cooked in many countries and has many nationalities. In Austria a dumpling is called Knoedel and a small one is a Nockerl. In Germany they are called Kloesse and Spaetzle. In Italy they are called Ravioli or Gnocchi. In Russia they are called Pirog or Piroshky. Romania calls them Papanasi, and in Slovenia they are called Zlinkrofi, while in Poland they call them Knedliki.
In France they are Quenelles. In Switzerland they have no dumplings to call their own. But there are dumplings in China. There they call them Dim Sum, “Little Somethings”, filled with all kinds of interesting combination of meats or vegetables. They probably originated in China, a “left-over” from the Ottoman Empire and its troops that devastated and plundered that part of the world long ago. Here in the United States Dumplings are Dumplings!
Along with the dumplings I have mentioned above I should explain that some have no filling, but still are dumplings. A Nockerl and a Gnocchi is a flavored dough. The Gnocchi is a potato dough (a favorite in Italian cuisine as a first course) and the Nockerl dough can be made with a puree of liver or spinach. There is also the Knaidel or Matzoh Ball, which is made with Matzo Meal, eggs, chicken fat, seasonings and cooked in a chicken broth, as are the liver and spinach Nockerln. The exception to this rule is the Spaetzle in Germany. It is a simple egg dough that has the consistency of a paste and is dribbled as mini-dumplings into a boiling pot of water to be cooked.
And when someone tells you in Vienna that you are…..
“Ein Suesses Nockerl,”
you can be assured he has given you a compliment that comes from his heart.
***************
Here are the recipes of my two favorite Dumplings!
Topfen Knoedel – Cheese Dumplings
2 lbs Ricotta cheese
5 oz Cream of Wheat (weigh it on a scale)
4 eggs
1 cup self-rising flour
1 cup Wondra flour
Mix all ingredients in a large bowl.
Let it rest for about 15 – 30 min.
In the meantime get two Dutch ovens ready with boiling water.
Make dumplings with wet hands and drop dumplings into the boiling water.
Dumpling should be about 2 to 3 inches in diameter….and it needs to be completely submerged in the water to be cooked.
Reduce the boil and simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes
Test a dumpling by taking one out and cutting it in half on a plate.
If center is still doughy – return it to pot and simmer another 5 min.
When cooked take the dumplings out with a slotted spoon, place them into a Pyrex baking pan and keep warm.
Toast bread crumbs in a little oil or butter then coat the dumplings. Serve them with any creamed vegetable or serve them as a dessert with little sour cream and sugar.
Zwetschken Knoedel…..Plum Dumplings
8 to 10 or more…Italian plums….
4 cups of riced boiled potatoes, from 4 to 5 medium potatoes
2 cups of flour
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
Some extra flour if needed…..
2 cups Toasted Bread Crumbs
Start to heat a pot of water…..and bring it to simmer while you make the dough and the Knoedel.
On a clean surface place 2 cups of flour, make a well and add the riced potatoes.
With your hands mix the flour and the potatoes just slightly, then add the eggs. With your hands or with a wooden paddle mix all ingredients then, knead to make a soft dough.
This potato dough is not a noodle dough, it is a gnocchi dough. If it feels sticky add a little flour and continue kneading just long enough to incorporate the added flour.
If you noticed that I did not add any salt….. Salt draws the moisture out of the potatoes and makes it very sticky…..therefore, NEVER add salt to a potato dough.
Cut pieces of the dough large enough to encase a plum. Roll the Knoedel between your hands like you would a ball. When all the plums are encased and all the dough is used up……drop the Knoedeln into the simmering water. Cook about 15 to 16 minutes.
With a slotted spoon remove the Knoedeln from the simmering water and place them into a Pyrex baking pan…….and keep warm.
Just before serving – roll each Knoedel in the toasted bread crumbs.
I like to serve these Zwetschken Knoedeln as a lunch or a light supper with a dollop of Sour Cream and sprinkled with sugar.
Dear Maja!
What a glorious topic dumplings!!!!
I love dumplings of all countries-little treasures. My grandmother made a fluffy dumpling that is with bone in skinless chicken thighs, carrots, celery, onion, parsley, etc.. I still make this and it is a favourite of my husband’s. For many years I add Vegeta to the home made chicken stock made with the wings, backs, and carcass including skin of chickens!
I want so much to learn how to make the little semolina dumplings served in Croatian Wedding Soup (Svatoska juha). Molimo vas znate li ovaj recept? Please!
Steve’s grandmother Hanson made kløbb of Norway.
Gyōza in Japan and Mandu in Korea are yummy as well. So many in every country of the world I think.
Other wonderful dumplings are samosas of India and Ada in Kerela!
Also I love mantu from Aphganistan and mantou of the Middle East. Manti in Armenia, and on and on.
What a wonderful world of savoury or sweet dumplings-fried, baked, boiled. Oh my I am so wanting dumplings. I make Thai Won tons often and freeze for quick meals.
Mary-Anne…………so nice of you to add the different dumplings to my post……..I tried to concentrate on the European ones and wanted to give the possible history of them in my story….therefore noted the Chinese dumplings. But, all the dumplings you mentioned are really a great addition to my story. Hopefully people will read you comment.
Thank you for you valuable information.
About the Svatovska Juha…………I have checked my Croation cookbooks, that were written for the American market…….therefore, most of the titles are in English with a few subtitles in Croatian. What does that soup have in it……what is it made of? If I knew the ingredients I might find it in my cookbooks under another name.
In the meant time – I will call my friend tomorrow and see if she knows what it is.
The soup has a very flavourful almost clear broth-with Vegeta in it I am sure. The dumplings are small and very fluffy. Steve adores this and I must admit I use Podravka Wedding Soup mix which is far too salty. I would love to make it from scratch!
http://www.podravka.com/brands/products/soups/clear-soups/wedding-soup
TIA I hope!
Mary-Anne
From Irene Black……..
Hello, hab eben Deine Knoedelgeschichte gelesen. Bayern ist natuerlich auch bekannt fuer seine Knoedel. Kennst Du die halb rohen, halb gekochten geriebenen Kartoffeln fuer Knoedel, die man nur mit Schweinsbraten isst? Bestimmt sind Dir die Semmelknoedel mit Schwammerl bekannt. Oder die Knoedel mit nur gekochten Kartoffeln fuer Rindfleisch, Blaukraut, ect.Wir sollten mal zusammen kommen und richtig habsburgisch-oesterreich- bayrisch kochen. Meine Erfahrung ist, wenn ich es meinen amerikanischen Freunden vorsetze sind sie gar nicht so begeistert. So geht’s mir auch mit Aspfelstrudel. Ich weiss wirklich wie man den macht, aber da wird dann nur ein Stueckl gegessen und ich muss fragen ob sie ihn gemocht haben. Einmal im JAhr mach ich nur fuer mich einen Strudel. Ich kann’s nicht lassen. Freu mich auf unser September Treffen. Mach’s gut bis dahin, herzlichst, Irene
Ultra YUM (and great story to accompany). Pictures so appealing as well. Will try BOTH soon!
Hi Maria,
I didn’t want to post this to your blog because it doesn’t relate to any of the wonderful creations you have there or any of your delightful stories of your childhood. With all the adversity you describe you seem to have found the value in your circumstances and capitalized on what treasures came your way. You may not intend to be inspiring with your stories, but you are.
Many years ago in a land far away (Glendale, California) your mother asked Judi and I to help her prepare her fabulous rum balls for Christmas. We enjoyed sitting at her table and talking with her as we chopped and rolled and it was surprising that any of them made it out of the kitchen. Recently our daughter Annabelle had a craving for a rum ball and I bought some on line that claimed to be the best ever. I should have known better. I won’t even bore you with how disappointing they were compared to our memory of Oma’s.
Soooo, I thought “what could be better than making some at home with our daughter”? My request, if you take requests (and I’m sure they are never ending), could you either write a column about them or send me your/her recipe? I’ll send you some:^) I’ll understand if you’d rather not so please don’t feel bad if you have to say no.
The dumpling article is very informative in addition to being entertaining and tempting. Do you take your own pictures? They look like you could take a bite out of the screen! Judi loves Dim Sum so I tried to convince her that her Mongol ancesters invented Spaetzle. She wasn’t buying it. Keep up the good work, I don’t know where you find the time. I watch what you are posting to Facebook too so I know you are busy. Happy Labor Day! Enjoy the Fall… Love Mike
From: Liz Dahne
Maria, I just LOVE reading your blog! It’s so informative and well thought out. Thank you for sharing!
From: Sheila Crye
Lovely stories! Thank you, Maria, for sharing them. What happened to your grandfather, the one who stayed at the hunting lodge in the forest? I plan to try out all your recipes–they look both easy and delicious!
Sheila……thank you for the nice comment on the dumpling story.
My grandfather stayed to protect their home, however it was not too long after my grandmother left that the Partisans started to threaten him and wanted to kill him. People in the village hid him and urged him to leave. My grandfather worked for a lumber company and had 800 lumberjacks working for him……..they all dispursed when Tito and his gang took over the forests, only one stayed to protect my grandfather. He brought clothing to disguise my grandfather and helped him on foot to the next big city and a train station where he jumped on a train that took him to Vienna. Otherwise my grandfather traveled only on horseback, or the company would send a special train on the tracks that transported lumber to the city where the wood was processed, when he needed to go to the company’s headquarters. He was a well known and a respected personality in that area. He too ended up in a refugee camp.
From…. Key Han
Maria,
It’s like I was there with you. The beautiful hunting lodge, chocking with the meatless bean soup, visiting Oma-D, and enjoying the yummy dumplings of all sorts.
I thought one was missing: Korean dumplings. It’s called “mandu” (mahn-doo) and there are many types. My favorite one is pork mandu. When I was coming home from school, a tired and hungry boy, the smell of mandu coming out from a mandu-shop is irresistible and uncontrollable. Having a couple of big and steamy mandus was like being in heaven.
I remember one time watching a Korean TV drama about mandu. About 2,000 years ago, General Jegal (jeh-gahal) in China was returning home after conquering the southern territory. It was a rainy season and a river was flooded. He was recommended to scarify 60 soldiers but he instead made 60 round figures like human heads and offered to the river god and he could crossed the river.
It’s a legend but I don’t know if the Chinese general really invented my favorite Korean mandu.
Regards,
Key
From……. Livio
Maria,
Truly enjoy your recipes and reminiscences.
Hope you and Dale are doing well and keeping cool this brutal summer.
Best,
Livio
love reading and seeing and can sometimes feel like i can smell the food …your stores, pictures and recipes are so inviting
i’m getting the encouragement of trying something new
Thank you – Phyllis – for your nice words and comment!
It is really great fun getting comments……..
Maria/Maja
My mother came from Vienna, and told me many times about her mom making these for my daddy, and he loved them, i am glad I found this receipe I plann on making this for him. I hope they turn out as good as my mom said they are. Mary Willis